Day 13, Maasai

 The past five days we spent in Sinya, camping far away from any towns. At walking distance there are Bomas - Maasai settlements. Each boma consists of an extended family, usually multiple wives of one husband, with children. In the middle of the Boma I visited there is an enclosure where goats and sheep are kept. Maasai depend on their cattle - they provide milk, sometimes meat and always an asset that can be exchanged (for school and healthcare). The men (or women if the family lacks boys) herd the cattle all day, moving them around for sustainable grazing. In the evening the cattle and herders come back to the Boma. The women 'count' the cattle. They know each animal individually so just by looking over the group they know if anyone is missing.

Two days ago we visited a school. It was a boarding school for local children. The curriculum is centralised and nationally directed, so there is no room for different cultures. It takes children out of their Maasai culture and gives them Western dreams. The children told us they want to be lawyers, doctors, soldiers, nurses and prime ministers. The school has a 100% pass rate, which is much higher than it usually is in areas as rural as here.

Before the school visit we went to the nearby market, which happens every tuesday. At the market we were surrounded by women hanging necklaces around our neck and fastening bracelets around our wrists. Everyone was exhausted afterwards. The women also set up a market with jewelery yesterday and today at our camp (I bought a lot....). A lot of the beads are nowadays imported from China, but the Maasai still make the intricate designs by hand - or teeth, in the case of shaping rings.

During the clinic visit yesterday we were introduced to the projects Sauti Moja engages in, the NGO set up by Corey. They help Maasai with family planning and healthcare. Their special focus is young Maasai girls who get pregnant, helping them stay in school. This is similar to the project I will be involved with!

I had the chance of getting to know Jeni, my internship host for my six-week internship. She is a wonderful, energetic, caring Maasai lady! The only worry I have is spending so much time in a dusty area, my lungs are not enjoying it. But the landscape is beautiful and the people are very welcoming. 

Yesterday evening the local Maasai gave us a celebration, slaughtering three goats and sharing their ritual dance. It was amazing, on top of a hill, with the sun setting behind the dancers. The way I have got to know Maasai culture is as very in touch with daily life. They are close to the surrounding nature and its animals, dependent on understanding them for survival. They also depend on each other, caring for sick neighbours and spending their days together.

For fear of romanticising the Maasai: Jeni also shared with us that no one gets used to a problem. No one gets used to sickness, lack of water and lack of food. As well as laughter and dancing there is much hardship here, especially since Maasai are pushed into smaller areas to continue their livelihoods, and climate change is exacerbating drought periods.

As I type this I sit in the bus, on our way to Usa River. A cloud of dust blows in through the window every now and then. The road - actually there is no road - is very, very bumpy. So bumpy that I think it is time to stop typing!

Ten minutes later: bus has a flat tire.. in the middle of nowhere.

Update: we survived!